Dogs are highly intelligent creatures and many pet owners do not give them enough credit when it comes to the way they can read and understand our body language. Some people have no idea that the body language that we display has a major impact on how well a dog will listen to us and obey our commands. Using the correct form of body language can also quickly stop your dog from displaying an improper behavior.
Let's use a very common example, such as the overexcited dog who likes to jump on every guest that comes to your door. We all go through this with our puppy or adult dog at some point in time. As soon as the guests arrive your dog is overwhelmed with happiness and excitement about who is at the door and whether or not they are going to play with him.
Do they have dog treats? What do they smell like? Do they want to play? How about I just jump all over them and see? This is exactly what your dog is thinking if we were to decipher his emotional behavior.
And meanwhile, you are giving every command possible to get your dog to stop being so excited and jumping on everyone. You try shouting but it only makes him more excited. You try giving harsh and loud "Off" commands but it's not working. Eventually, you are so stressed with yelling and trying to pull your dog off that it turns into one big chaotic party.
And yes, the term "party" is a great way to explain it because to your dog you are just joining in on the fun and excitement that he is feeling. Can you see now how your body language and the way you are communicating with her voice comes across to your dog? You are only adding to the situation as opposed to changing our dog's behavior.
Communicate better with your dog by using the following body language tips
In the above example of the overexcited dog who can't seem to stop jumping all over the house guests, you understand now that your body language and excitability only made your dog feel more enthused about what it is he was doing. Therefore, you must take a different approach to the situation, regardless of what action you are trying to communicate with your dog. Below are a few basic body language tips that you can use:
1. When you're angry at your puppy or adult dog, do not chase him around the house. You may be upset with them, but to your puppy, he thinks you're playing a game and he will run around forever.
2. When you give your dog a command, display a very bold and upright body position. Stand up, chest forward, and head back. Your dog will have more respect and a slight bit of intimidation, which can help with training him.
3. If your dog is extremely excited then do not add to the problem by getting feisty. Instead, move slowly and talk in a soothing tone of voice. Display the same behavior you wish him to use. Doing so will calm him down and it will be much easier to change his behavior
To your success in dogtraining
Monday, September 14, 2009
How to Stop a Dog Barking and Get a Good Night Sleep
Perhaps one of the most persistently complained of dog behavior problem is barking. Fortunately, the question of how to stop a barking dog is something that most owners should be able to answer provided they properly understand the underlying causes of this particular type of dog behavior problem, and implement strategies to address it...
Firstly, it's important not to forget that dogs are supposed to bark. It's an inherent dynamic of their psyche, it's one of the ways they communicate. Consider this, if someone was entering your back yard with a view to burgling your home, you'd want your dog to bark, right?
However, if your dog barks to a degree which far exceeds need or duty, it is possible to stop dog barking by consistent conditioning, thereby eliminating the unnecessary and often frustrating noise (the part driving you and your neighbors increasingly nuts). By doing so, you'll improve your relationship with your pet by being prepared to listen and respond appropriately when your dogs barking response is invoked (not to mention improving your relationship with those suffering needlessly next door). Your goal is to be able to fulfill the dual role of master, and best friend.
Fear Based Barking
Most dog barking problems develop during 6-8 months of age, during a period where your dog's barking is more likely to be fear based than protective. The problem is exacerbated in dogs with limited socialization. The less confident your dog, the more likely they are to be prone to excessive barking. Positive experiences and reinforcement of your dogs level of confidence can have dramatic effects on their levels of barking, particularly during this phase of their development.
Whether your dog is young or older, it is essential that problem or fear based barking is not reinforced by your response to it. You want your dog to feel confident. When your dog displays uneasy behavior (such as shackles risen) it's often our natural reaction to try to reassure. We might pat them, and tell them ok, but frequently in doing so we communicate with a slightly concerned tone. We of course are concerned...we want our dog to be calm! But to our dog, they interpret this as us reinforcing that there is something to be fearful of. The best response is to simply and confidently tell your dog there's nothing wrong. Adopt an 'everything is great' attitude, and your dog will follow.
Assertive/Alert Barking
Beyond fear based barking is your dogs need to assert themselves as being 'on alert'. Frequently this results in them spending an hour barking like crazy at the garden hose rather than achieving any purposeful 'watchdog' role. This too can be curbed by understanding why it is that your dog is acting this way.
Your dog understands that its their duty to alert their owners. What they often need to have reinforced is that whilst their job is to alert their owners, barring extreme circumstances, they are then supposed to hand responsibility to responding to any perceived threat over to you. That is to say, you're the leader, your dog is part of your pack, and you must take responsibility for that dominance.
How do we achieve this? Firstly, give credence to your dogs barking. Take a look why they might be creating a fuss. Don't just tell your dog to be quiet from inside the kitchen, head on out and see what's the cause. It might be a neighbour, it might be the mailman (it really might just be the garden hose). But whatever it is, do your part and see. If your dog persists with barking once their role is fulfilled however, then its not only appropriate but essential that you let them know they are overstepping the line. You're the master. Once your dog has seen you have assessed the situation, then you should confidently and clearly reprimand them for continuing to bark. Take it one step further. Call your dog over, and with your sitting next to you take hold of their collar with one hand. With your other hand, carefully but firmly place your left hand over your dogs muzzle and press down (be sure the pressure is not uncomfortable). At the same time, issue a single command in a calm but confident voice, such as "Quiet". Don't yell at your dog. They will hear this as similar to a bark and it only serves to reinforce that there is something worth barking at. Its imperative to remember that dog's don't communicate the same way we do. By commanding them to be quiet calmly and confidently, together with imobilising your dogs head with your hand, you are exerting your dominance in a manner similar to that which might be displayed by a normal dog pack leader when silencing a noisy dog. By doing this anywhere up to a dozen times, your dog will begin to associate the command "Quiet" with the need to stop barking.
You can in fact set up this conditioning without having to wait for situational barking. Find something that triggers your dogs warning barking. It might be knocking on the door for example. After one or two barks, stop knocking and do something to get their attention. As soon as their attention is drawn to you and they stop barking, say "Quiet" or whichever command you have selected, and reward your dog. Positive reinforcement when your dog stops barking can be assisted by aids like food treats. Apply this when first training your dog with this technique, and gradually decrease the use of food treats. You should aim to get to the stage where you can simply pat your dog or say "good dog" or a like comment. Its important to apply this technique only when your dogs barking is unnecessary. As stated earlier, there will be situations where you want your dog to bark, and the bark response is not something you may want to extinguish completely.
Dog Barking Triggers
If you can't get your dog to stop barking at anything and everything, attempt to eliminate some of the triggers which set off the dog barking. This might be as simple as removing their exposure to the trigger. For example, put them in their enclosure if a neighbor is expected. Say your dog guards the north side of your fence from the neighbor's dog it might seem obvious but remove your dogs access to his post. With the absence of temptation comes salvation.
If outright isolation from a trigger is not possible, before a barking trigger event occurs (such as the mailman arriving) call your dog and instruct it to sit. Provide your dog with praise and reinforcement for compliance. Better yet, eliminate the trigger as being perceived as a potential threat. Introduce them to the neighbor or mailman, let them give your dog a treat. If necessary, have them start off from afar, and reassure your dog calmly and confidently as they approach. Let them throw treats to your dog, and as they get closer, hand them directly. Engendering loyalty in dogs with your encouragement to others, or by way of controlled exposure to something causing your dog concern, is a great way to eliminate alarm.
Attention Seeking
If you can't stop dog barking because your dog wants attention, this requires some more interventionist methods, and the appreciation that your own actions may at some stage have contributed to the problem. Attention seeking barking is a learned response. Like children, dogs find out what works, or what they can get away with, and repeat it. If you let your dog into the house whenever he barks, whenever he wants to get in he'll bark. If you try and ignore them, the barking will become more persistent, often to the point of extreme frustration. Worse still, if you ultimately accede to their demands (say at 3am, out of desperation) it only reinforces that persistence results in success. Instead, try waiting for a point where they stop barking, then let them in. For particularly determined barkers, try coupling this with a deterrent, such as a squirt bottle, for more rapid results. Diverting this type of barking behavior may take more time, and success may be gradual, but it is achievable.
Boredom Dog Barking
If your dog is barking because they are bored, then your attention to their needs may be the simplest and fastest solution. There are a mass of dog related products on the market which are relatively inexpensive. Chew toys, balls, and a range of other toys can keep your friend occupied until you get home to give them their much needed exercise. Try altering their routine and give them plenty of options to keep them quiet.
Frequently, being able to isolate your dogs anxieties, needs or motivations is key to achieving that which you both want, which in your case is a happy (and quiet) pet.
To your success in dogtraining
Firstly, it's important not to forget that dogs are supposed to bark. It's an inherent dynamic of their psyche, it's one of the ways they communicate. Consider this, if someone was entering your back yard with a view to burgling your home, you'd want your dog to bark, right?
However, if your dog barks to a degree which far exceeds need or duty, it is possible to stop dog barking by consistent conditioning, thereby eliminating the unnecessary and often frustrating noise (the part driving you and your neighbors increasingly nuts). By doing so, you'll improve your relationship with your pet by being prepared to listen and respond appropriately when your dogs barking response is invoked (not to mention improving your relationship with those suffering needlessly next door). Your goal is to be able to fulfill the dual role of master, and best friend.
Fear Based Barking
Most dog barking problems develop during 6-8 months of age, during a period where your dog's barking is more likely to be fear based than protective. The problem is exacerbated in dogs with limited socialization. The less confident your dog, the more likely they are to be prone to excessive barking. Positive experiences and reinforcement of your dogs level of confidence can have dramatic effects on their levels of barking, particularly during this phase of their development.
Whether your dog is young or older, it is essential that problem or fear based barking is not reinforced by your response to it. You want your dog to feel confident. When your dog displays uneasy behavior (such as shackles risen) it's often our natural reaction to try to reassure. We might pat them, and tell them ok, but frequently in doing so we communicate with a slightly concerned tone. We of course are concerned...we want our dog to be calm! But to our dog, they interpret this as us reinforcing that there is something to be fearful of. The best response is to simply and confidently tell your dog there's nothing wrong. Adopt an 'everything is great' attitude, and your dog will follow.
Assertive/Alert Barking
Beyond fear based barking is your dogs need to assert themselves as being 'on alert'. Frequently this results in them spending an hour barking like crazy at the garden hose rather than achieving any purposeful 'watchdog' role. This too can be curbed by understanding why it is that your dog is acting this way.
Your dog understands that its their duty to alert their owners. What they often need to have reinforced is that whilst their job is to alert their owners, barring extreme circumstances, they are then supposed to hand responsibility to responding to any perceived threat over to you. That is to say, you're the leader, your dog is part of your pack, and you must take responsibility for that dominance.
How do we achieve this? Firstly, give credence to your dogs barking. Take a look why they might be creating a fuss. Don't just tell your dog to be quiet from inside the kitchen, head on out and see what's the cause. It might be a neighbour, it might be the mailman (it really might just be the garden hose). But whatever it is, do your part and see. If your dog persists with barking once their role is fulfilled however, then its not only appropriate but essential that you let them know they are overstepping the line. You're the master. Once your dog has seen you have assessed the situation, then you should confidently and clearly reprimand them for continuing to bark. Take it one step further. Call your dog over, and with your sitting next to you take hold of their collar with one hand. With your other hand, carefully but firmly place your left hand over your dogs muzzle and press down (be sure the pressure is not uncomfortable). At the same time, issue a single command in a calm but confident voice, such as "Quiet". Don't yell at your dog. They will hear this as similar to a bark and it only serves to reinforce that there is something worth barking at. Its imperative to remember that dog's don't communicate the same way we do. By commanding them to be quiet calmly and confidently, together with imobilising your dogs head with your hand, you are exerting your dominance in a manner similar to that which might be displayed by a normal dog pack leader when silencing a noisy dog. By doing this anywhere up to a dozen times, your dog will begin to associate the command "Quiet" with the need to stop barking.
You can in fact set up this conditioning without having to wait for situational barking. Find something that triggers your dogs warning barking. It might be knocking on the door for example. After one or two barks, stop knocking and do something to get their attention. As soon as their attention is drawn to you and they stop barking, say "Quiet" or whichever command you have selected, and reward your dog. Positive reinforcement when your dog stops barking can be assisted by aids like food treats. Apply this when first training your dog with this technique, and gradually decrease the use of food treats. You should aim to get to the stage where you can simply pat your dog or say "good dog" or a like comment. Its important to apply this technique only when your dogs barking is unnecessary. As stated earlier, there will be situations where you want your dog to bark, and the bark response is not something you may want to extinguish completely.
Dog Barking Triggers
If you can't get your dog to stop barking at anything and everything, attempt to eliminate some of the triggers which set off the dog barking. This might be as simple as removing their exposure to the trigger. For example, put them in their enclosure if a neighbor is expected. Say your dog guards the north side of your fence from the neighbor's dog it might seem obvious but remove your dogs access to his post. With the absence of temptation comes salvation.
If outright isolation from a trigger is not possible, before a barking trigger event occurs (such as the mailman arriving) call your dog and instruct it to sit. Provide your dog with praise and reinforcement for compliance. Better yet, eliminate the trigger as being perceived as a potential threat. Introduce them to the neighbor or mailman, let them give your dog a treat. If necessary, have them start off from afar, and reassure your dog calmly and confidently as they approach. Let them throw treats to your dog, and as they get closer, hand them directly. Engendering loyalty in dogs with your encouragement to others, or by way of controlled exposure to something causing your dog concern, is a great way to eliminate alarm.
Attention Seeking
If you can't stop dog barking because your dog wants attention, this requires some more interventionist methods, and the appreciation that your own actions may at some stage have contributed to the problem. Attention seeking barking is a learned response. Like children, dogs find out what works, or what they can get away with, and repeat it. If you let your dog into the house whenever he barks, whenever he wants to get in he'll bark. If you try and ignore them, the barking will become more persistent, often to the point of extreme frustration. Worse still, if you ultimately accede to their demands (say at 3am, out of desperation) it only reinforces that persistence results in success. Instead, try waiting for a point where they stop barking, then let them in. For particularly determined barkers, try coupling this with a deterrent, such as a squirt bottle, for more rapid results. Diverting this type of barking behavior may take more time, and success may be gradual, but it is achievable.
Boredom Dog Barking
If your dog is barking because they are bored, then your attention to their needs may be the simplest and fastest solution. There are a mass of dog related products on the market which are relatively inexpensive. Chew toys, balls, and a range of other toys can keep your friend occupied until you get home to give them their much needed exercise. Try altering their routine and give them plenty of options to keep them quiet.
Frequently, being able to isolate your dogs anxieties, needs or motivations is key to achieving that which you both want, which in your case is a happy (and quiet) pet.
To your success in dogtraining
Dog Training:Getting Your Dogs Attention(part2)
Welcome to the second part of training your dog to "pay attention". Continue with the same protocol and after fifteen minutes, get down on one knee to your dog's level and untie the long-line from his collar, but don't remove the collar yet.
Just take a few moments to tell your dog what a great job he's doing. Give him a good pet on the head and talk to him in enthusiastic tone of voice. A good praise and a pat on the dog's head are all you need at this time to help shape his attitude for the next lessons that will follow.
Time For A Break
When you have finished your few minutes of praise, casually remove the training collar and give your dog a little privacy to take a break and think things over. Do not leave the training collar on your dog when he's unattended because the ring can snag objects and cause strangulation.
Your first fifteen minutes of training may have seemed unremarkable to you. However, if you followed the instructions accurately, your dog began to realize that when he's tied to you, he must move with you. If he failed to learn that on your first day, you can be sure that he'll learn it, and more, by the fourth day, since it takes the average dog four days to learn an average thing.
At the same time, your dog is going to learn something else that is equally important. He is going to learn that you have the ability to use sound judgment as well as demonstrating a will that's much stronger than his. Confidence and respect in your actions will begin to grow.
Day 2
Your second day of training should be same as the first day, except for the direction of your pattern. From your starting point the pattern could be the reverse of the day before, so that your dog will not know ahead of time which direction you intend to take.
Depending on your particular dog, you may or may not have struggles on your second day. If you do, handle it as you did the first day. Ignore all distractions and just walk!
Day 3
On the third day of training, even the most stubborn and uncooperative dog will begin to realize that nothing he does is going to deter your from going in the direction you want to go, and when you want to go. He will also realize that the line of least resistance is to follow you.
You will also notice, as you repeat the procedures of the first two days, that your dog will be watching you just a bit more closely. He is learning that he must move with his owner when on a leash. He has learned that you won't direct him of your intentions. And since he must move with you, there's only one way he'll be able to be aware of your movements, and that is to pay attention to you.
Just take a few moments to tell your dog what a great job he's doing. Give him a good pet on the head and talk to him in enthusiastic tone of voice. A good praise and a pat on the dog's head are all you need at this time to help shape his attitude for the next lessons that will follow.
Time For A Break
When you have finished your few minutes of praise, casually remove the training collar and give your dog a little privacy to take a break and think things over. Do not leave the training collar on your dog when he's unattended because the ring can snag objects and cause strangulation.
Your first fifteen minutes of training may have seemed unremarkable to you. However, if you followed the instructions accurately, your dog began to realize that when he's tied to you, he must move with you. If he failed to learn that on your first day, you can be sure that he'll learn it, and more, by the fourth day, since it takes the average dog four days to learn an average thing.
At the same time, your dog is going to learn something else that is equally important. He is going to learn that you have the ability to use sound judgment as well as demonstrating a will that's much stronger than his. Confidence and respect in your actions will begin to grow.
Day 2
Your second day of training should be same as the first day, except for the direction of your pattern. From your starting point the pattern could be the reverse of the day before, so that your dog will not know ahead of time which direction you intend to take.
Depending on your particular dog, you may or may not have struggles on your second day. If you do, handle it as you did the first day. Ignore all distractions and just walk!
Day 3
On the third day of training, even the most stubborn and uncooperative dog will begin to realize that nothing he does is going to deter your from going in the direction you want to go, and when you want to go. He will also realize that the line of least resistance is to follow you.
You will also notice, as you repeat the procedures of the first two days, that your dog will be watching you just a bit more closely. He is learning that he must move with his owner when on a leash. He has learned that you won't direct him of your intentions. And since he must move with you, there's only one way he'll be able to be aware of your movements, and that is to pay attention to you.
Friday, September 11, 2009
Dog Training:Getting Your Dogs Attention (Part1)
In today's article about the first week of training your dog, we are going to apply a basic method that was originated by Mr. William Koehler, a respected animal trainer. His first week's long-line method (slightly changed here) should be highly praised as one of the greatest innovations in canine training.
Regardless of how basic and unpromising these first-week steps may seem, follow them carefully and exactly, and you will have a more obedient dog, one that will learn easier and faster.
Let The Training Begin
On your first day of training, take your dog to the backyard, the sidewalk, or the park (only if it provides little to no distractions). Put the training collar on your dog, making sure that it's fitted correctly. Tie one end of the long-line to the free ring. Holding the other end of the long-line in your hands, pick a spot at a distance of about thirty to forty-five feet. It could be a tin can, a fire hydrant, or a particular patch of grass. Walk fast in a straight line to that spot. Determine to let nothing stand in your way, especially your dog and his tricks.
If yours is the type of dog who has had no form of total control placed over him, you can bet there'll be tricks. He may start wailing, which means that he would prefer to go in some other direction and you are not cooperating.
He might roll over on his back and place all four feet in the air trying to hook a claw in the sky, which means he doesn't particularly want to walk with you because you're not going to the direction he wants. He may even try to rest directly in front of you which simply means that you forgot to ask his permission to walk, and he'd prefer that you stand still until he's make up his mind.
In training your dog, you need to keep one thing perfectly clear in mind so that it will also be clear in the mind of your dog: You are training your dog, not the other way around.
Regardless of his tricks, and with the end of the long-line held firmly in your hand, go to the destination that you've chosen. As Mr. Koehler expresses "Your dog will go with you if for no other reason than to be near you".
That first sixty seconds of training (the time it takes you to walk thirty to forty-five feet) may indeed be a test of wills. It is crucial that your dog develop assurance that you will win this test of wills. He will develop this assurance if he knows that you will go from point A to point B without considering his resistance.
By the time you reach your predetermined location, the learning processes will have already been triggered within the mind of your dog, so simply stand there for about forty-five seconds to a minute. Look around and observe everything around you except your pet. Do not even look at him. Doing so just might possibly get you hopelessly entangled in an emotional struggle.
When your forty-five seconds to one minute is up, pick another spot at about the same distance and, without warning or tugging on the leash to get your dog's attention, walk at a brisk pace right to it. Again, do not let your dog stand in your way. If you have to clear your throat or in some other way try to catch your dog's attention before moving, then your dog is doing a great job of training you.
Don't ask your dog's permission to walk and just go! When you reached your spot, pause again for about forty-five seconds to observe your surroundings but not your dog. Again, pick a location and, without any warning, walk to it at a brisk pace. Continue this process for the full fifteen-minute training session.
To your success in dog training
Regardless of how basic and unpromising these first-week steps may seem, follow them carefully and exactly, and you will have a more obedient dog, one that will learn easier and faster.
Let The Training Begin
On your first day of training, take your dog to the backyard, the sidewalk, or the park (only if it provides little to no distractions). Put the training collar on your dog, making sure that it's fitted correctly. Tie one end of the long-line to the free ring. Holding the other end of the long-line in your hands, pick a spot at a distance of about thirty to forty-five feet. It could be a tin can, a fire hydrant, or a particular patch of grass. Walk fast in a straight line to that spot. Determine to let nothing stand in your way, especially your dog and his tricks.
If yours is the type of dog who has had no form of total control placed over him, you can bet there'll be tricks. He may start wailing, which means that he would prefer to go in some other direction and you are not cooperating.
He might roll over on his back and place all four feet in the air trying to hook a claw in the sky, which means he doesn't particularly want to walk with you because you're not going to the direction he wants. He may even try to rest directly in front of you which simply means that you forgot to ask his permission to walk, and he'd prefer that you stand still until he's make up his mind.
In training your dog, you need to keep one thing perfectly clear in mind so that it will also be clear in the mind of your dog: You are training your dog, not the other way around.
Regardless of his tricks, and with the end of the long-line held firmly in your hand, go to the destination that you've chosen. As Mr. Koehler expresses "Your dog will go with you if for no other reason than to be near you".
That first sixty seconds of training (the time it takes you to walk thirty to forty-five feet) may indeed be a test of wills. It is crucial that your dog develop assurance that you will win this test of wills. He will develop this assurance if he knows that you will go from point A to point B without considering his resistance.
By the time you reach your predetermined location, the learning processes will have already been triggered within the mind of your dog, so simply stand there for about forty-five seconds to a minute. Look around and observe everything around you except your pet. Do not even look at him. Doing so just might possibly get you hopelessly entangled in an emotional struggle.
When your forty-five seconds to one minute is up, pick another spot at about the same distance and, without warning or tugging on the leash to get your dog's attention, walk at a brisk pace right to it. Again, do not let your dog stand in your way. If you have to clear your throat or in some other way try to catch your dog's attention before moving, then your dog is doing a great job of training you.
Don't ask your dog's permission to walk and just go! When you reached your spot, pause again for about forty-five seconds to observe your surroundings but not your dog. Again, pick a location and, without any warning, walk to it at a brisk pace. Continue this process for the full fifteen-minute training session.
To your success in dog training
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
7 Tips You Must Know Before Training Your Chihuahua
Training your Chihuahua to be your Best Bud
We have all seen the tiny Chiwawa, small enough to fit in the crook of your arm but mighty enough to take on an intruder ten times its size. The Chi dog is a special breed of dog that craves attention and will strive very hard to make you happy. But just like any other dog, attitude comes with discipline and puppy training is the key.
Start with the Number One Basic Rule
The first sixteen weeks of your Chihuahua 's life are very formidable. Since many live to be eighteen years old, what you do in the beginning can shape them into either a personable companion or a snippy little tyrant. Dogs are all creatures of their heredity when they used to run in packs and every pack has a leader. Puppy training your Chiwawa to recognize you, as the leader is the very first thing that they need to learn to put them at ease.
How do I know my Chihuahua is Happy with Puppy Training?
The Chi dog is intelligent and attentive to its leader, which is you. Beginning with potty training, spend the necessary time, encouraging and praising your dog and reward with treats. Be careful not to fuss over your Chi dog and do not reward unless an order is obeyed. When one puppy-training goal has been reached, move on to the next. Crate training is important in establishing their territory and when praised and rewarded, your dog will look forward to learning a new lesson. Remember, when you are happy, your Chiwawa is happy.
The Chihuahua , A Social Butterfly
Socialization and obedience is part of puppy training. Your Chiwawa needs to know what is expected of them in public and around other dogs and people. This is a huge step in building your bond that will last a lifetime. You will begin to form as a team, each knowing the other's moves, just like a best friend. Your dog wants to be a huge part of your life and going on outings can be a real treat for both of you when your Chi dog is trained to interact well with others.
Should I let my Chihuahua have the Run of the House?
A Chiwawa does not like to be alone but you can't take him/her to work with you or to church. Puppy training to stay alone without anxiety separation is another hurdle that must be jumped. Remember, you are the leader and your Chi needs guidance as to what his/her role is when you are away. With proper training, your dog will not be afraid, anxious or angry upon your leaving. It will just be a part of the routine to go to the crate when you need to depart.
Keeping your Chihuahua Healthy
Do not overfeed your Chiwawa. An overweight dog gets tired and sluggish and is bad for their health and attitude. Dogs are not people and their systems do not react the same as ours. You are doing damage when sharing your food or overfeeding because you think they are hungry. Get tips on the proper weight from your vet and stick to it. Having a Chi as your best bud can be very rewarding for a long time for both of you when proper puppy training is correctly put into action.
Last thing - Be Consistent in Your Puppy Training!
I can't stress how important it is to be consistent in training your Chi. If you allow your Chi to bite and tear an old t-shirt, you are actually expecting it to do the same thing your beautiful dinner gown one day. They do not know how to differentiate which fabric is allowed to bite and which is not.
to your success in dogtraining
We have all seen the tiny Chiwawa, small enough to fit in the crook of your arm but mighty enough to take on an intruder ten times its size. The Chi dog is a special breed of dog that craves attention and will strive very hard to make you happy. But just like any other dog, attitude comes with discipline and puppy training is the key.
Start with the Number One Basic Rule
The first sixteen weeks of your Chihuahua 's life are very formidable. Since many live to be eighteen years old, what you do in the beginning can shape them into either a personable companion or a snippy little tyrant. Dogs are all creatures of their heredity when they used to run in packs and every pack has a leader. Puppy training your Chiwawa to recognize you, as the leader is the very first thing that they need to learn to put them at ease.
How do I know my Chihuahua is Happy with Puppy Training?
The Chi dog is intelligent and attentive to its leader, which is you. Beginning with potty training, spend the necessary time, encouraging and praising your dog and reward with treats. Be careful not to fuss over your Chi dog and do not reward unless an order is obeyed. When one puppy-training goal has been reached, move on to the next. Crate training is important in establishing their territory and when praised and rewarded, your dog will look forward to learning a new lesson. Remember, when you are happy, your Chiwawa is happy.
The Chihuahua , A Social Butterfly
Socialization and obedience is part of puppy training. Your Chiwawa needs to know what is expected of them in public and around other dogs and people. This is a huge step in building your bond that will last a lifetime. You will begin to form as a team, each knowing the other's moves, just like a best friend. Your dog wants to be a huge part of your life and going on outings can be a real treat for both of you when your Chi dog is trained to interact well with others.
Should I let my Chihuahua have the Run of the House?
A Chiwawa does not like to be alone but you can't take him/her to work with you or to church. Puppy training to stay alone without anxiety separation is another hurdle that must be jumped. Remember, you are the leader and your Chi needs guidance as to what his/her role is when you are away. With proper training, your dog will not be afraid, anxious or angry upon your leaving. It will just be a part of the routine to go to the crate when you need to depart.
Keeping your Chihuahua Healthy
Do not overfeed your Chiwawa. An overweight dog gets tired and sluggish and is bad for their health and attitude. Dogs are not people and their systems do not react the same as ours. You are doing damage when sharing your food or overfeeding because you think they are hungry. Get tips on the proper weight from your vet and stick to it. Having a Chi as your best bud can be very rewarding for a long time for both of you when proper puppy training is correctly put into action.
Last thing - Be Consistent in Your Puppy Training!
I can't stress how important it is to be consistent in training your Chi. If you allow your Chi to bite and tear an old t-shirt, you are actually expecting it to do the same thing your beautiful dinner gown one day. They do not know how to differentiate which fabric is allowed to bite and which is not.
to your success in dogtraining
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
How To Deal With Your Dog Jumping On Furniture?
This is a common problem and the method of dealing with this behaviour is very similar to that of jumping and stealing food from the counters.
Three approaches are used:
Consistency
Your dog should never be allowed to jump on the furniture
Counter-conditioning
Create a spot for your spot near your furniture (couch), which can be a blanket or doggie bed.
Put his favourite toys or special treats at the spot
For the first two months, whenever you sit at your furniture, leash him to the spot to avoid him from wondering off
After two months, walk your dog (on leash) to the furniture.
When he does not jump up to the furniture, praise and reward him.
If he jumps up to the furniture, immediately say ‘No’ and pull him away from the furniture
Repeat this exercise several times a day.
Correction
By the fourth month, your dog should learn not to jump on the furniture
If he still persists in this behaviour, it’s time to apply the booby trap to correct the behaviour:
i. Put a motion-sensitive sound alarm near the furniture so that alarm will trigger and sound when your dog jumps onto the furniture
ii. Make sure the alarm does not sound when he is near the furniture; only when he jumps onto the furniture
iii. Bring your dog near to the furniture and leave the room immediately
iv. If he jumps onto the furniture, alarm will sound and you should return to the room immediately and say ‘No’ to him followed by pulling him on his leash away from the furniture
If your dog is not deterred by this booby trap, it’s time to put a Scat Mat on the furniture. This device will send out a very small electrical shock upon touching it. No dog will want to repeat this behaviour after experiencing such an unpleasant zap. Rest assured that the electrical shock experience is harmless to both human and animal.
And remember to praise your dog abundantly when he does the right thing!
To your success in dogtraining
Three approaches are used:
Consistency
Your dog should never be allowed to jump on the furniture
Counter-conditioning
Create a spot for your spot near your furniture (couch), which can be a blanket or doggie bed.
Put his favourite toys or special treats at the spot
For the first two months, whenever you sit at your furniture, leash him to the spot to avoid him from wondering off
After two months, walk your dog (on leash) to the furniture.
When he does not jump up to the furniture, praise and reward him.
If he jumps up to the furniture, immediately say ‘No’ and pull him away from the furniture
Repeat this exercise several times a day.
Correction
By the fourth month, your dog should learn not to jump on the furniture
If he still persists in this behaviour, it’s time to apply the booby trap to correct the behaviour:
i. Put a motion-sensitive sound alarm near the furniture so that alarm will trigger and sound when your dog jumps onto the furniture
ii. Make sure the alarm does not sound when he is near the furniture; only when he jumps onto the furniture
iii. Bring your dog near to the furniture and leave the room immediately
iv. If he jumps onto the furniture, alarm will sound and you should return to the room immediately and say ‘No’ to him followed by pulling him on his leash away from the furniture
If your dog is not deterred by this booby trap, it’s time to put a Scat Mat on the furniture. This device will send out a very small electrical shock upon touching it. No dog will want to repeat this behaviour after experiencing such an unpleasant zap. Rest assured that the electrical shock experience is harmless to both human and animal.
And remember to praise your dog abundantly when he does the right thing!
To your success in dogtraining
How To Deal With Your Dog's Housebreaking Issue?
If your dog accidentally eliminate in the night, consider the following:
Do not let your dog have any food or water at least two hours before bedtime
Take the dog out for his final walk and elimination as late as you possibly can
If need be, put him in a crate. Remember the size of the crate should be just enough for him to stand up, turn around, lie down and comfortably stretch out but no bigger than that.
Crate training is effective since most dogs do not like to eliminate where they have to lie. If the crate is large enough, he may eliminate if there is a clean spot for him to lie down.
For an effective housebreaking training, it involves:
Positively reinforcing the correct behaviour – praising him when he eliminates in the proper place
Managing him by preventing him from eliminating in the wrong place until you take him out to eliminate at the right place.
To do so:
Confine your dog in a crate
After a few hours, take him from the crate to the location you want him to eliminate in.
Remember to take your dog out the same door to the same location every time you want him to eliminate
Wait for 10 minutes for him to eliminate
When he does it within 10 minutes, praise and reward him (with his favourite treats)
Wait for an extra 2 to 3 minutes to make sure he completely empties himself
Take him back in the house and give him 20 to 30 minutes of supervised free time
Use a timer to ensure that he is not allowed for more than 20 to 30 minutes of freedom
When the timer goes off, you can either:
Take him back out to eliminate again. When he does so, remember to praise him and give him his free time
Put him back to his crate
Mistakes are made when owners give their dogs too much free time, fail to take the dog out again, fail to confine the dog when the time is up, or fail to wait the extra two or three minutes after he eliminates the first time
Remember if your dog fails to eliminate within 10 minutes, he should be confined again. This is not a punishment. It is simply a way of preventing the dog from going to the wrong place for elimination.
Remember that consistent feeding and watering schedules is important to effectively train your dog in his housebreaking. Free food and water will make it unpredictable when your dog needs to eliminate. Bear in mind the following points in planning your feeding and water schedules:
Your dog should be fed at fixed times
He should be given only 10 to 15 minutes to eat.
After that, remove any unfinished food.
Free feeding should be avoided
Water should only be given during his free time and when you take your dog to eliminate; and sparingly when he is confined in his crate
As a thumb of rule, a good guide to estimate the duration your dog (if he is a puppy) needs to eliminate is by adding an hour for every month of his puppy’s life, ie if he is three months old, he can only hold for about 3 hours before eliminating.
If your dog accidentally eliminates in the house, correction after the event is not only a waste of time but can be counter productive as it only confuses the dog.
To correct the situation, identify the possible cause of the accidental elimination in the house and take action to avoid it. For example, has you given too much free time to your dog in the house before you take him out to eliminate?
In situations where you cannot take your dog outside to eliminate, consider using a potty training kit (like Puppy Go Potty). Such kit contains absorbent paper (‘litter’) and a waterproof tray
To train your dog to use the potty:
Put your dog in an exercise pen – this is a metal collapsible pen
Place the potty on one side of the pen
When your dog can no longer control his urge to eliminate, he will most likely go to the tray to do so
During the housebreaking process, avoid any dietary changes. If change is essential, avoid possible stomach upset by:
Feed your dog with two-thirds of the old food and one-third of the new food for the 1st week
For the 2nd week, use one-third of the old food and two-thirds of the new food
Only completely feed him with the new food from the 3rd week onwards
And remember to praise your dog abundantly when he does the right thing
To your success in dogtraining
Do not let your dog have any food or water at least two hours before bedtime
Take the dog out for his final walk and elimination as late as you possibly can
If need be, put him in a crate. Remember the size of the crate should be just enough for him to stand up, turn around, lie down and comfortably stretch out but no bigger than that.
Crate training is effective since most dogs do not like to eliminate where they have to lie. If the crate is large enough, he may eliminate if there is a clean spot for him to lie down.
For an effective housebreaking training, it involves:
Positively reinforcing the correct behaviour – praising him when he eliminates in the proper place
Managing him by preventing him from eliminating in the wrong place until you take him out to eliminate at the right place.
To do so:
Confine your dog in a crate
After a few hours, take him from the crate to the location you want him to eliminate in.
Remember to take your dog out the same door to the same location every time you want him to eliminate
Wait for 10 minutes for him to eliminate
When he does it within 10 minutes, praise and reward him (with his favourite treats)
Wait for an extra 2 to 3 minutes to make sure he completely empties himself
Take him back in the house and give him 20 to 30 minutes of supervised free time
Use a timer to ensure that he is not allowed for more than 20 to 30 minutes of freedom
When the timer goes off, you can either:
Take him back out to eliminate again. When he does so, remember to praise him and give him his free time
Put him back to his crate
Mistakes are made when owners give their dogs too much free time, fail to take the dog out again, fail to confine the dog when the time is up, or fail to wait the extra two or three minutes after he eliminates the first time
Remember if your dog fails to eliminate within 10 minutes, he should be confined again. This is not a punishment. It is simply a way of preventing the dog from going to the wrong place for elimination.
Remember that consistent feeding and watering schedules is important to effectively train your dog in his housebreaking. Free food and water will make it unpredictable when your dog needs to eliminate. Bear in mind the following points in planning your feeding and water schedules:
Your dog should be fed at fixed times
He should be given only 10 to 15 minutes to eat.
After that, remove any unfinished food.
Free feeding should be avoided
Water should only be given during his free time and when you take your dog to eliminate; and sparingly when he is confined in his crate
As a thumb of rule, a good guide to estimate the duration your dog (if he is a puppy) needs to eliminate is by adding an hour for every month of his puppy’s life, ie if he is three months old, he can only hold for about 3 hours before eliminating.
If your dog accidentally eliminates in the house, correction after the event is not only a waste of time but can be counter productive as it only confuses the dog.
To correct the situation, identify the possible cause of the accidental elimination in the house and take action to avoid it. For example, has you given too much free time to your dog in the house before you take him out to eliminate?
In situations where you cannot take your dog outside to eliminate, consider using a potty training kit (like Puppy Go Potty). Such kit contains absorbent paper (‘litter’) and a waterproof tray
To train your dog to use the potty:
Put your dog in an exercise pen – this is a metal collapsible pen
Place the potty on one side of the pen
When your dog can no longer control his urge to eliminate, he will most likely go to the tray to do so
During the housebreaking process, avoid any dietary changes. If change is essential, avoid possible stomach upset by:
Feed your dog with two-thirds of the old food and one-third of the new food for the 1st week
For the 2nd week, use one-third of the old food and two-thirds of the new food
Only completely feed him with the new food from the 3rd week onwards
And remember to praise your dog abundantly when he does the right thing
To your success in dogtraining
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