Tuesday, November 3, 2009

How to Use the Leash in Training


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To your success in dog training

Basic Dog Training Tips:How to Training a Dog to Stop Barking


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To your success in dog training

Basic Dog Training Tips:How to Training a Dog


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To your success in dog training

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

Dog Training Biting

Dog Training Biting, needs more priority because about 5 million people are bitten by dogs every year in the united States alone. It is fortunate that only one out of every six dog bite cases are that serious so as to warrant medical attention. Emergency rooms in the hospitals across the United States treat about one thousand people per day for dog bite injuries. It is a very sad fact to note that the majority of the victims are children, and that the injuries are most always on the face.

Dog Training Hand Signals

Dog Training Hand Signals should be a chapter in every dog training manual. Training your dog to respond to hand signals can be fun to teach and very easy for your dog to learn, understand and obey

Monday, September 14, 2009

Dog Training Use The Right Body Language So Your Dog Understands

Dogs are highly intelligent creatures and many pet owners do not give them enough credit when it comes to the way they can read and understand our body language. Some people have no idea that the body language that we display has a major impact on how well a dog will listen to us and obey our commands. Using the correct form of body language can also quickly stop your dog from displaying an improper behavior.

Let's use a very common example, such as the overexcited dog who likes to jump on every guest that comes to your door. We all go through this with our puppy or adult dog at some point in time. As soon as the guests arrive your dog is overwhelmed with happiness and excitement about who is at the door and whether or not they are going to play with him.

Do they have dog treats? What do they smell like? Do they want to play? How about I just jump all over them and see? This is exactly what your dog is thinking if we were to decipher his emotional behavior.

And meanwhile, you are giving every command possible to get your dog to stop being so excited and jumping on everyone. You try shouting but it only makes him more excited. You try giving harsh and loud "Off" commands but it's not working. Eventually, you are so stressed with yelling and trying to pull your dog off that it turns into one big chaotic party.

And yes, the term "party" is a great way to explain it because to your dog you are just joining in on the fun and excitement that he is feeling. Can you see now how your body language and the way you are communicating with her voice comes across to your dog? You are only adding to the situation as opposed to changing our dog's behavior.

Communicate better with your dog by using the following body language tips

In the above example of the overexcited dog who can't seem to stop jumping all over the house guests, you understand now that your body language and excitability only made your dog feel more enthused about what it is he was doing. Therefore, you must take a different approach to the situation, regardless of what action you are trying to communicate with your dog. Below are a few basic body language tips that you can use:

1. When you're angry at your puppy or adult dog, do not chase him around the house. You may be upset with them, but to your puppy, he thinks you're playing a game and he will run around forever.

2. When you give your dog a command, display a very bold and upright body position. Stand up, chest forward, and head back. Your dog will have more respect and a slight bit of intimidation, which can help with training him.

3. If your dog is extremely excited then do not add to the problem by getting feisty. Instead, move slowly and talk in a soothing tone of voice. Display the same behavior you wish him to use. Doing so will calm him down and it will be much easier to change his behavior

To your success in dogtraining

How to Stop a Dog Barking and Get a Good Night Sleep

Perhaps one of the most persistently complained of dog behavior problem is barking. Fortunately, the question of how to stop a barking dog is something that most owners should be able to answer provided they properly understand the underlying causes of this particular type of dog behavior problem, and implement strategies to address it...

Firstly, it's important not to forget that dogs are supposed to bark. It's an inherent dynamic of their psyche, it's one of the ways they communicate. Consider this, if someone was entering your back yard with a view to burgling your home, you'd want your dog to bark, right?






However, if your dog barks to a degree which far exceeds need or duty, it is possible to stop dog barking by consistent conditioning, thereby eliminating the unnecessary and often frustrating noise (the part driving you and your neighbors increasingly nuts). By doing so, you'll improve your relationship with your pet by being prepared to listen and respond appropriately when your dogs barking response is invoked (not to mention improving your relationship with those suffering needlessly next door). Your goal is to be able to fulfill the dual role of master, and best friend.

Fear Based Barking

Most dog barking problems develop during 6-8 months of age, during a period where your dog's barking is more likely to be fear based than protective. The problem is exacerbated in dogs with limited socialization. The less confident your dog, the more likely they are to be prone to excessive barking. Positive experiences and reinforcement of your dogs level of confidence can have dramatic effects on their levels of barking, particularly during this phase of their development.

Whether your dog is young or older, it is essential that problem or fear based barking is not reinforced by your response to it. You want your dog to feel confident. When your dog displays uneasy behavior (such as shackles risen) it's often our natural reaction to try to reassure. We might pat them, and tell them ok, but frequently in doing so we communicate with a slightly concerned tone. We of course are concerned...we want our dog to be calm! But to our dog, they interpret this as us reinforcing that there is something to be fearful of. The best response is to simply and confidently tell your dog there's nothing wrong. Adopt an 'everything is great' attitude, and your dog will follow.

Assertive/Alert Barking

Beyond fear based barking is your dogs need to assert themselves as being 'on alert'. Frequently this results in them spending an hour barking like crazy at the garden hose rather than achieving any purposeful 'watchdog' role. This too can be curbed by understanding why it is that your dog is acting this way.

Your dog understands that its their duty to alert their owners. What they often need to have reinforced is that whilst their job is to alert their owners, barring extreme circumstances, they are then supposed to hand responsibility to responding to any perceived threat over to you. That is to say, you're the leader, your dog is part of your pack, and you must take responsibility for that dominance.

How do we achieve this? Firstly, give credence to your dogs barking. Take a look why they might be creating a fuss. Don't just tell your dog to be quiet from inside the kitchen, head on out and see what's the cause. It might be a neighbour, it might be the mailman (it really might just be the garden hose). But whatever it is, do your part and see. If your dog persists with barking once their role is fulfilled however, then its not only appropriate but essential that you let them know they are overstepping the line. You're the master. Once your dog has seen you have assessed the situation, then you should confidently and clearly reprimand them for continuing to bark. Take it one step further. Call your dog over, and with your sitting next to you take hold of their collar with one hand. With your other hand, carefully but firmly place your left hand over your dogs muzzle and press down (be sure the pressure is not uncomfortable). At the same time, issue a single command in a calm but confident voice, such as "Quiet". Don't yell at your dog. They will hear this as similar to a bark and it only serves to reinforce that there is something worth barking at. Its imperative to remember that dog's don't communicate the same way we do. By commanding them to be quiet calmly and confidently, together with imobilising your dogs head with your hand, you are exerting your dominance in a manner similar to that which might be displayed by a normal dog pack leader when silencing a noisy dog. By doing this anywhere up to a dozen times, your dog will begin to associate the command "Quiet" with the need to stop barking.

You can in fact set up this conditioning without having to wait for situational barking. Find something that triggers your dogs warning barking. It might be knocking on the door for example. After one or two barks, stop knocking and do something to get their attention. As soon as their attention is drawn to you and they stop barking, say "Quiet" or whichever command you have selected, and reward your dog. Positive reinforcement when your dog stops barking can be assisted by aids like food treats. Apply this when first training your dog with this technique, and gradually decrease the use of food treats. You should aim to get to the stage where you can simply pat your dog or say "good dog" or a like comment. Its important to apply this technique only when your dogs barking is unnecessary. As stated earlier, there will be situations where you want your dog to bark, and the bark response is not something you may want to extinguish completely.

Dog Barking Triggers

If you can't get your dog to stop barking at anything and everything, attempt to eliminate some of the triggers which set off the dog barking. This might be as simple as removing their exposure to the trigger. For example, put them in their enclosure if a neighbor is expected. Say your dog guards the north side of your fence from the neighbor's dog it might seem obvious but remove your dogs access to his post. With the absence of temptation comes salvation.

If outright isolation from a trigger is not possible, before a barking trigger event occurs (such as the mailman arriving) call your dog and instruct it to sit. Provide your dog with praise and reinforcement for compliance. Better yet, eliminate the trigger as being perceived as a potential threat. Introduce them to the neighbor or mailman, let them give your dog a treat. If necessary, have them start off from afar, and reassure your dog calmly and confidently as they approach. Let them throw treats to your dog, and as they get closer, hand them directly. Engendering loyalty in dogs with your encouragement to others, or by way of controlled exposure to something causing your dog concern, is a great way to eliminate alarm.

Attention Seeking

If you can't stop dog barking because your dog wants attention, this requires some more interventionist methods, and the appreciation that your own actions may at some stage have contributed to the problem. Attention seeking barking is a learned response. Like children, dogs find out what works, or what they can get away with, and repeat it. If you let your dog into the house whenever he barks, whenever he wants to get in he'll bark. If you try and ignore them, the barking will become more persistent, often to the point of extreme frustration. Worse still, if you ultimately accede to their demands (say at 3am, out of desperation) it only reinforces that persistence results in success. Instead, try waiting for a point where they stop barking, then let them in. For particularly determined barkers, try coupling this with a deterrent, such as a squirt bottle, for more rapid results. Diverting this type of barking behavior may take more time, and success may be gradual, but it is achievable.

Boredom Dog Barking

If your dog is barking because they are bored, then your attention to their needs may be the simplest and fastest solution. There are a mass of dog related products on the market which are relatively inexpensive. Chew toys, balls, and a range of other toys can keep your friend occupied until you get home to give them their much needed exercise. Try altering their routine and give them plenty of options to keep them quiet.

Frequently, being able to isolate your dogs anxieties, needs or motivations is key to achieving that which you both want, which in your case is a happy (and quiet) pet.

To your success in dogtraining

Dog Training:Getting Your Dogs Attention(part2)

Welcome to the second part of training your dog to "pay attention". Continue with the same protocol and after fifteen minutes, get down on one knee to your dog's level and untie the long-line from his collar, but don't remove the collar yet.

Just take a few moments to tell your dog what a great job he's doing. Give him a good pet on the head and talk to him in enthusiastic tone of voice. A good praise and a pat on the dog's head are all you need at this time to help shape his attitude for the next lessons that will follow.

Time For A Break

When you have finished your few minutes of praise, casually remove the training collar and give your dog a little privacy to take a break and think things over. Do not leave the training collar on your dog when he's unattended because the ring can snag objects and cause strangulation.

Your first fifteen minutes of training may have seemed unremarkable to you. However, if you followed the instructions accurately, your dog began to realize that when he's tied to you, he must move with you. If he failed to learn that on your first day, you can be sure that he'll learn it, and more, by the fourth day, since it takes the average dog four days to learn an average thing.

At the same time, your dog is going to learn something else that is equally important. He is going to learn that you have the ability to use sound judgment as well as demonstrating a will that's much stronger than his. Confidence and respect in your actions will begin to grow.

Day 2

Your second day of training should be same as the first day, except for the direction of your pattern. From your starting point the pattern could be the reverse of the day before, so that your dog will not know ahead of time which direction you intend to take.

Depending on your particular dog, you may or may not have struggles on your second day. If you do, handle it as you did the first day. Ignore all distractions and just walk!

Day 3

On the third day of training, even the most stubborn and uncooperative dog will begin to realize that nothing he does is going to deter your from going in the direction you want to go, and when you want to go. He will also realize that the line of least resistance is to follow you.

You will also notice, as you repeat the procedures of the first two days, that your dog will be watching you just a bit more closely. He is learning that he must move with his owner when on a leash. He has learned that you won't direct him of your intentions. And since he must move with you, there's only one way he'll be able to be aware of your movements, and that is to pay attention to you.

Friday, September 11, 2009

Dog Training:Getting Your Dogs Attention (Part1)

In today's article about the first week of training your dog, we are going to apply a basic method that was originated by Mr. William Koehler, a respected animal trainer. His first week's long-line method (slightly changed here) should be highly praised as one of the greatest innovations in canine training.

Regardless of how basic and unpromising these first-week steps may seem, follow them carefully and exactly, and you will have a more obedient dog, one that will learn easier and faster.

Let The Training Begin

On your first day of training, take your dog to the backyard, the sidewalk, or the park (only if it provides little to no distractions). Put the training collar on your dog, making sure that it's fitted correctly. Tie one end of the long-line to the free ring. Holding the other end of the long-line in your hands, pick a spot at a distance of about thirty to forty-five feet. It could be a tin can, a fire hydrant, or a particular patch of grass. Walk fast in a straight line to that spot. Determine to let nothing stand in your way, especially your dog and his tricks.

If yours is the type of dog who has had no form of total control placed over him, you can bet there'll be tricks. He may start wailing, which means that he would prefer to go in some other direction and you are not cooperating.

He might roll over on his back and place all four feet in the air trying to hook a claw in the sky, which means he doesn't particularly want to walk with you because you're not going to the direction he wants. He may even try to rest directly in front of you which simply means that you forgot to ask his permission to walk, and he'd prefer that you stand still until he's make up his mind.

In training your dog, you need to keep one thing perfectly clear in mind so that it will also be clear in the mind of your dog: You are training your dog, not the other way around.

Regardless of his tricks, and with the end of the long-line held firmly in your hand, go to the destination that you've chosen. As Mr. Koehler expresses "Your dog will go with you if for no other reason than to be near you".

That first sixty seconds of training (the time it takes you to walk thirty to forty-five feet) may indeed be a test of wills. It is crucial that your dog develop assurance that you will win this test of wills. He will develop this assurance if he knows that you will go from point A to point B without considering his resistance.

By the time you reach your predetermined location, the learning processes will have already been triggered within the mind of your dog, so simply stand there for about forty-five seconds to a minute. Look around and observe everything around you except your pet. Do not even look at him. Doing so just might possibly get you hopelessly entangled in an emotional struggle.

When your forty-five seconds to one minute is up, pick another spot at about the same distance and, without warning or tugging on the leash to get your dog's attention, walk at a brisk pace right to it. Again, do not let your dog stand in your way. If you have to clear your throat or in some other way try to catch your dog's attention before moving, then your dog is doing a great job of training you.

Don't ask your dog's permission to walk and just go! When you reached your spot, pause again for about forty-five seconds to observe your surroundings but not your dog. Again, pick a location and, without any warning, walk to it at a brisk pace. Continue this process for the full fifteen-minute training session.
To your success in dog training

Wednesday, September 9, 2009

7 Tips You Must Know Before Training Your Chihuahua

Training your Chihuahua to be your Best Bud

We have all seen the tiny Chiwawa, small enough to fit in the crook of your arm but mighty enough to take on an intruder ten times its size. The Chi dog is a special breed of dog that craves attention and will strive very hard to make you happy. But just like any other dog, attitude comes with discipline and puppy training is the key.

Start with the Number One Basic Rule

The first sixteen weeks of your Chihuahua 's life are very formidable. Since many live to be eighteen years old, what you do in the beginning can shape them into either a personable companion or a snippy little tyrant. Dogs are all creatures of their heredity when they used to run in packs and every pack has a leader. Puppy training your Chiwawa to recognize you, as the leader is the very first thing that they need to learn to put them at ease.

How do I know my Chihuahua is Happy with Puppy Training?

The Chi dog is intelligent and attentive to its leader, which is you. Beginning with potty training, spend the necessary time, encouraging and praising your dog and reward with treats. Be careful not to fuss over your Chi dog and do not reward unless an order is obeyed. When one puppy-training goal has been reached, move on to the next. Crate training is important in establishing their territory and when praised and rewarded, your dog will look forward to learning a new lesson. Remember, when you are happy, your Chiwawa is happy.

The Chihuahua , A Social Butterfly

Socialization and obedience is part of puppy training. Your Chiwawa needs to know what is expected of them in public and around other dogs and people. This is a huge step in building your bond that will last a lifetime. You will begin to form as a team, each knowing the other's moves, just like a best friend. Your dog wants to be a huge part of your life and going on outings can be a real treat for both of you when your Chi dog is trained to interact well with others.

Should I let my Chihuahua have the Run of the House?

A Chiwawa does not like to be alone but you can't take him/her to work with you or to church. Puppy training to stay alone without anxiety separation is another hurdle that must be jumped. Remember, you are the leader and your Chi needs guidance as to what his/her role is when you are away. With proper training, your dog will not be afraid, anxious or angry upon your leaving. It will just be a part of the routine to go to the crate when you need to depart.

Keeping your Chihuahua Healthy

Do not overfeed your Chiwawa. An overweight dog gets tired and sluggish and is bad for their health and attitude. Dogs are not people and their systems do not react the same as ours. You are doing damage when sharing your food or overfeeding because you think they are hungry. Get tips on the proper weight from your vet and stick to it. Having a Chi as your best bud can be very rewarding for a long time for both of you when proper puppy training is correctly put into action.

Last thing - Be Consistent in Your Puppy Training!

I can't stress how important it is to be consistent in training your Chi. If you allow your Chi to bite and tear an old t-shirt, you are actually expecting it to do the same thing your beautiful dinner gown one day. They do not know how to differentiate which fabric is allowed to bite and which is not.
to your success in dogtraining

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

How To Deal With Your Dog Jumping On Furniture?

This is a common problem and the method of dealing with this behaviour is very similar to that of jumping and stealing food from the counters.

Three approaches are used:

Consistency
Your dog should never be allowed to jump on the furniture

Counter-conditioning

Create a spot for your spot near your furniture (couch), which can be a blanket or doggie bed.
Put his favourite toys or special treats at the spot
For the first two months, whenever you sit at your furniture, leash him to the spot to avoid him from wondering off
After two months, walk your dog (on leash) to the furniture.
When he does not jump up to the furniture, praise and reward him.
If he jumps up to the furniture, immediately say ‘No’ and pull him away from the furniture
Repeat this exercise several times a day.

Correction

By the fourth month, your dog should learn not to jump on the furniture
If he still persists in this behaviour, it’s time to apply the booby trap to correct the behaviour:


i. Put a motion-sensitive sound alarm near the furniture so that alarm will trigger and sound when your dog jumps onto the furniture

ii. Make sure the alarm does not sound when he is near the furniture; only when he jumps onto the furniture

iii. Bring your dog near to the furniture and leave the room immediately

iv. If he jumps onto the furniture, alarm will sound and you should return to the room immediately and say ‘No’ to him followed by pulling him on his leash away from the furniture

If your dog is not deterred by this booby trap, it’s time to put a Scat Mat on the furniture. This device will send out a very small electrical shock upon touching it. No dog will want to repeat this behaviour after experiencing such an unpleasant zap. Rest assured that the electrical shock experience is harmless to both human and animal.





And remember to praise your dog abundantly when he does the right thing!


To your success in dogtraining

How To Deal With Your Dog's Housebreaking Issue?

If your dog accidentally eliminate in the night, consider the following:

Do not let your dog have any food or water at least two hours before bedtime
Take the dog out for his final walk and elimination as late as you possibly can
If need be, put him in a crate. Remember the size of the crate should be just enough for him to stand up, turn around, lie down and comfortably stretch out but no bigger than that.



Crate training is effective since most dogs do not like to eliminate where they have to lie. If the crate is large enough, he may eliminate if there is a clean spot for him to lie down.

For an effective housebreaking training, it involves:

Positively reinforcing the correct behaviour – praising him when he eliminates in the proper place
Managing him by preventing him from eliminating in the wrong place until you take him out to eliminate at the right place.
To do so:

Confine your dog in a crate
After a few hours, take him from the crate to the location you want him to eliminate in.
Remember to take your dog out the same door to the same location every time you want him to eliminate
Wait for 10 minutes for him to eliminate
When he does it within 10 minutes, praise and reward him (with his favourite treats)
Wait for an extra 2 to 3 minutes to make sure he completely empties himself
Take him back in the house and give him 20 to 30 minutes of supervised free time
Use a timer to ensure that he is not allowed for more than 20 to 30 minutes of freedom
When the timer goes off, you can either:
Take him back out to eliminate again. When he does so, remember to praise him and give him his free time
Put him back to his crate
Mistakes are made when owners give their dogs too much free time, fail to take the dog out again, fail to confine the dog when the time is up, or fail to wait the extra two or three minutes after he eliminates the first time

Remember if your dog fails to eliminate within 10 minutes, he should be confined again. This is not a punishment. It is simply a way of preventing the dog from going to the wrong place for elimination.

Remember that consistent feeding and watering schedules is important to effectively train your dog in his housebreaking. Free food and water will make it unpredictable when your dog needs to eliminate. Bear in mind the following points in planning your feeding and water schedules:

Your dog should be fed at fixed times
He should be given only 10 to 15 minutes to eat.
After that, remove any unfinished food.
Free feeding should be avoided
Water should only be given during his free time and when you take your dog to eliminate; and sparingly when he is confined in his crate
As a thumb of rule, a good guide to estimate the duration your dog (if he is a puppy) needs to eliminate is by adding an hour for every month of his puppy’s life, ie if he is three months old, he can only hold for about 3 hours before eliminating.

If your dog accidentally eliminates in the house, correction after the event is not only a waste of time but can be counter productive as it only confuses the dog.

To correct the situation, identify the possible cause of the accidental elimination in the house and take action to avoid it. For example, has you given too much free time to your dog in the house before you take him out to eliminate?




In situations where you cannot take your dog outside to eliminate, consider using a potty training kit (like Puppy Go Potty). Such kit contains absorbent paper (‘litter’) and a waterproof tray



To train your dog to use the potty:

Put your dog in an exercise pen – this is a metal collapsible pen
Place the potty on one side of the pen
When your dog can no longer control his urge to eliminate, he will most likely go to the tray to do so
During the housebreaking process, avoid any dietary changes. If change is essential, avoid possible stomach upset by:

Feed your dog with two-thirds of the old food and one-third of the new food for the 1st week
For the 2nd week, use one-third of the old food and two-thirds of the new food
Only completely feed him with the new food from the 3rd week onwards




And remember to praise your dog abundantly when he does the right thing
To your success in dogtraining

Why Does Your Dog Mount Other Dogs?

Typically, when a dog mounts another dog, it is not sexually motivated.



Dogs constantly try to dominate each other - both female and male dogs. It is the instinctive behaviour. When two dogs meet each other, they will first size each other up through eye contact. If one surrenders by lying down then leadership is settled. If not, the battle for dominance begins by the dogs trying to mount each other until one roll over submissively and turns his eyes away. Until the eyes have completely turned away, surrender has not happened as the ‘losing’ dog may launch a sneak attack against the other.

When complete surrender is achieved, the mounting behaviour becomes a dominance display – the one on top reminding the other who is in charge. As the head is the highest part of the dog, when one dog brings the head of the other dog down, it’s a show of who is higher and in control.

Another reason why dogs mount each other is because they know each other well and may have been separated for some time. It is a form of bonding and is not solely associated with males trying to flirt or breed a female.

It is also not uncommon to find that a male dog may even unsheathing his penis to release his scent on the other dog to proclaim to other dogs that he has won the battle over the dog he is mounting on.

As this is the instinctive nature and behaviour of your dog, the behaviour should not be discouraged. Rather it is better to leave the dogs alone.

The only time when this behaviour is abnormal is if a female has some vaginal discharge indicating some sort of infection, which smells as if she is in season. In that case, other dogs will not leave her alone, and a visit to the vet is appropriate.

So the next time when you see two male dogs trying to mount each other, there is no such thing as a ‘GAY DOG!”



And remember to praise your dog abundantly when he does the right thing
To your success in dogtraining

Friday, September 4, 2009

How To Deal with Your Dog's Digging

When you come home to find holes all over your lawn, and you have a dog, there may be a correlation there. But don't bother trying to confront your dog after the fact. Punishment after the fact is widely known as the least effective and potentially most damaging form of dog training on earth. Even if you bring your dog to the spot, hold them by the scruff of the neck, and scold them while you direct their head deep into their handiwork, they won't have any idea what all the fuss is about.


Instead, take a deep breath, and complete your after work wind-down routine. Then, calmly return to the back yard to locate your dog, with the intention of asking a few questions about their habit of excavating your property.



Question One


If you are unable to locate your dog, AND the holes in your lawn are all found right along the bottom of your fence line, then you may not need to ask the first question, which is, "Are you trying to escape?" If your pet is not "fixed" (neutered or spayed), then they may be entertaining their roaming instinct. They will return, and they may even bring a whole family with them when they do.



Question Two


Another possibility is that your dog is digging to freedom in an attempt to find you. If your dog is near or even somewhere on your property when you return from a period of absence, they may in fact have separation anxiety issues, which you'll have to treat directly. Once you do, the digging will be an afterthought.



Question Three


If your dog is there, your next question to ask is, "Are you getting too hot back here when I'm away?" We all know that dogs pant when it's hot. But they also like to burrow, especially when there is not a spot of shade in sight. So you'll need to rule this out as motivating factor for your dog's digging, and make sure they have a place to stay cool.



Lastly, you'll have to ask your dog, "Are you burying your stuff?" This is simply an old habit that stems from the fact that their ancestors often killed more than they could eat in a sitting. This habit may be tough to break, but try changing the range of treats you leave with your dog when away. For instance, a massive juicy bone may be a great treat for your dog when you're around, but might be something you don't leave with them when you're gone.



You may have to change the dog's access areas, or fence off an area that you'd like to keep for the kid's soccer pitch. You can also try setting up a dirt area or sandbox where digging is allowed and encouraged. Many dogs are wild about sand, and you can even attract them to the area by burying treats in the sandbox.
To your success in dog training

Tuesday, September 1, 2009

Why Your Dog Doesn't Really Want to Bark All the Time

In terms of evolution, you can say that dogs bark because we want them to. When we began domesticating dogs somewhere between 15,000 and 150,000 years ago, we saw the potential advantage of a very loyal and very vocal companion, so we selectively bred barking into domestic dogs from wild wolves, which don't bark. We also selected for all the sorts of traits we thought were cute, such as big eyes and flat faces. I'm not sure who was on the job when they decided "loud" should be in this category, but that's what happened. Vocal dogs were prized and thus their genes were privileged.



Consequently, certain breeds of dogs, such as those traditionally selected as

watch dogs, are known to be heavy barkers. You should always consider the breed

proactively when getting a new dog to possibly avoid barking related problems.



In any case, even when your dog seems to be barking at nothing, you can bet they're barking for something, even if they're only barking for your return. (Continual barking that kicks in after you are gone for 20 minutes or so and continues incessantly could be an indication of separation anxiety, a psychological condition that will require some extra attention and training).



Rule out the obvious first: if they start to bark toward the end of the day, they could be hungry. If they bark after being left contained for a few hours, they could need exercise (or perhaps a bathroom break). As many dog behaviorists stress, dogs are social, pack-oriented animals, and since you (and family) now comprise the dog's pack, you can expect your dog to make some noise if they are left alone for long periods of time.



Once you have ruled out the obvious, and given your friend enough exercise and attention, you can start to zero in on training a dog that is still barking. You should try to identify causes. Barking will be caused by either an external or internal stimulus. An "attention-getting" bark arises from an internal distress. A bark meant to sound an alert arises from a passing person, or dog, or insect as the case may be.



You can address internal stimulus through training, such as either ignoring an attention-getting bark until your dog settles, then rewarding his ability to quiet down, or holding your dog's snout firmly and asking it, gently, to "Shhh." Again, reward the right response.



In addition, you can often eliminate external stimulus through common sense. For example, I dealt with a dog that moved with its owner from a house with a door knocker to one with a doorbell. The dog was well-behaved and generally quiet. But the doorbell drove it into a barking frenzy. I suggested he remove the doorbell and ask visitors to "Please knock" by way of a small sign where the doorbell used to be. Problem solved.



If your dog barks "at you" immediately after you've given them a command, then you have some dominance training to do. They are talking back.



Nuisance Barking When You are There


When you need to curb your dog's barking, it can be a real challenge if the only time they do it is when you're not there. Often, these dogs need a training program that will not only address the barking, but possibly a general case of separation anxiety. However, you're in luck if they bark in your presence, as you can correct the barking with the right timing, correction, and praise. Dealing with a barking problem when you're there may also help prevent it from happening when you're away. There are several methods discussed, which each have varying degrees of merit:



Ignore, wait, and reward method. This is good for attention seekers, but you'll need some patience, and perhaps a good set of earplugs. The important thing is to reward them immediately after they stop.



The squirt gun method. I personally don't enjoy carrying around a gun (how un-American of me!) even if that gun is filled with water. It can be a hassle, and if you're not a quick enough draw, it diminishes the effect. Note: a mixture of Citronella or water and vinegar solution (one part vinegar to eight parts water) can be more effective than straight water when using this approach. Aim for the chest, not the face.



The collar and leash method. Effective for dogs on lead that have been trained to respond to a tug and a corrective, "Uh uh" or simple "No." You may find it easy to suppress barking through the same means. This is a good method.

But here's the absolute best and quickest:



Physical correction method. No, it is NOT the least bit violent, painful, or inhumane. When your dog barks, meet them at their level, firmly wrap one or both of your hands around the snout (don't shake it), and repeat your corrective command. I use a continual "Shhh" or a repeated "Uh uh uh uh." The idea is to hold on not only until they stop making noise (they obviously can't bark with their mouth closed) but also until they stop resisting the placement of your hand by jerking back or wriggling away. This method is effective also because it asserts your dominant role in the process.



Because it involves a physical correction, it may not be a favorite option for owners uncomfortable with this sort of interaction. But I can only emphasize that dogs are not children and they feel more secure with a clear idea of a pack leader they can trust.



Whatever method you choose, only repetition will do the trick. Never yell. It's like barking back at them. It just makes more noise. Though it's easy to tell your dog to shut it through an open window, it's lazy, and if your dog is barking because it needs to tell you something, even if it's just that they want a bit more attention, then yelling will upset and confuse them more. Expect more barking. As always, give praise when the barking stops.



All in all, you still need to allow your dog times to fully express themselves and their beautiful voice. It is not realistic that you always ask your dog to stop barking every time they start. In fact, this can have dangerous consequences if the dog needs to alert you to something but they have been discouraged from speaking up. Remember, if they are barking to indicate the arrival of someone trying to sell their Tupperware or their religion, let them go for an extra minute, and thank them after your visitor has made a hasty exit.



Nuisance Barking When You're Away


Ok, now it's time to talk about that difficult situation of a dog that only barks when you're away. Obviously, most problems with barking dogs result from dogs that don't have their owner around to quiet them down. In fact, the owner's absence in many cases is what's rousing the dog's vocal chords.



A lonely dog barking or whining can be a nuisance and difficult to address, but there are still some things you should be doing. Try to come home more often, or try to arrange for a friend to visit, ideally with their friendly and energetic dog. It may nip the problem right in the bud. Enough said.



If you know you've got a barking dog problem that has the potential to anger neighbors, a little public relations work can go a long way. If possible, ask your neighbors if there is a barking nuisance coming from your place and, if there is, tell them you're working on it. Then work on it.



You might also try staging a false exit. Walk once around the house or whatever it takes for your dog to think you're gone. When your dog barks, correct the behavior with a "Quiet" command (though your sudden reappearance will likely be enough to stop them anyway).



You can use special bark collars, that either use sonic or electric power to correct your dog. Other collars squirt a substance such as citronella when they bark, a scent they despise. I don't use them, and the ones I have seen in use were awkward and not 100 percent effective. But I stay away from them less because they train through discomfort (they do not harm your pet), and more because they displace the source of authority from you to some device that they don't really understand. Furthermore, they don't differentiate between acceptable - even necessary - barking on one hand, and noise pollution on the other. And that's not good. There's also a medieval-like procedure whereby the dog's voice-box is removed to render them barkless, or at least takes the bite out of their bark. This is abhorrent.



A better option for desperate dog owners is arranging some form of doggy day care, whether it's a professional service or a personal arrangement. Some dogs simply do not get enough stimulation during the day, and they will let the world know about it until they do.
To your success in dog training

Pulling on the Lead: a Better Solution

On any animal bloopers or funniest home video show, you are likely to find some sort of slapstick scene of a dog pulling on a lead. Often this will involve a very large dog and a very small owner. In the last one I saw, there was a family on a camping holiday that tied their dog to their tent. It saw something it wanted to chase. Enough said.




Dogs pull on leads as a matter of instinct. As hunting animals, they live for the chase. So often they pull because they are in pursuit of something (a cat, squirrel, or another dog). But there are other reasons that are just as common. It's possible that they are uncontrollably over-excited about their daily session of quasi-freedom. And it is possible that they see themselves as the dominant animal in your family. In this case, they see you as the one who is being disobediently slow.



Whatever the reason, the traditional method of addressing the issue of pulling on the lead is more or less the same. It involves a series of repeated interventions whereby:



1) The dog pulls on the lead
2) you stop,
3) issue a sharp verbal command ("uh uh"),
4) and a quick tug back on the lead.
5) You start walking again.
6) Repeat.



This training technique works eventually, provided there is enough repetition. But in the short term, your walks are not likely to be very long at all!



Another "traditional" solution to this problem is the use of choke chains and collars, a method that, thankfully, is now deemed to be unnecessary and outdated in the professional dog training community.



There are some innovative training techniques around to address the leash pulling problem. One that comes to mind in particular is the "random walking" method demonstrated by professional trainer Susan Morton in our Kingdom of Pets Dog Training DVD Series. The concept is brilliantly simple: a dominant or over-anxious dog can't pull on the lead if he doesn't know which direction he's heading, and if that direction changes often. You'll have to check out the DVD to find out exactly how to make it work for you.



There is more good news for dog owners who are tired of their dogs yanking their chain, so to speak. Leash and collar technology has advanced enough to offer dog owners a few alternatives to solutions to the pulling problem: head and harness collars.



Head and Harness Collars


When I started training dogs, head or "harness" collars were new on the market and all the rage. Premier Pet Gentle Leader Training Dog Collar® and the Halti Training Head Collar® are the two best known types of dog head collars, and are often discussed interchangeably even though there are slight differences in the design and they are made by different companies. Because I have used the Gentle Leader® extensively, though not exclusively, in my own experience, I will focus on it.



What is it? As opposed to traditional dog collars that go around the neck, the Gentle Leader® is a head harness that consists of a nylon nose strap and neck strap. The lead is atta to a ring at the end of a short strap that extends under the chin.ched



How does it work? Both straps are designed to have a specific function. The nose loop is intended to mimic the practice of demonstrating pack dominance between two animals by firmly taking a dog's muzzle in their own. The neck strap is intended to relax and calm the dog by mimicking the practice of a mother grasping her pups by the back of the neck. In addition, the strap applies pressure to the back of the neck instead of the front of the throat.



Dogs tend to respond to an applied force by exerting an opposing force, which is why they often respond to a backwards pull of lead with more pulling! The Gentle Leader® is designed to reverse this behavior, and arrest forward movement when force is exerted on the neck.



Most importantly, the lead allows the owner to control the head of the dog, and - not unlike a horse's bridle - if you control the head you control the beast.



How effective is it? In my experience the Gentle Leader® is extremely effective in correcting pulling, lunging, and jumping. I found it particularly effective with owners who like to run with their dogs, but need to keep them in line on populated paths and trails. It can be used to facilitate the basic obedience commands such as "sit" and "down."



Although the product information notes that the collar will stop unwanted barking (through a quick tug of the lead that closes the dog's mouth), I found the lead less effective in this regard.



Perhaps the best thing about this form of lead is that you are constantly training the dog without the need for constant commands. In addition, you are reinforcing your role as the leader. You stop, they stop, simple as that.



In the majority cases, owners who start with the Gentle Leader® from an early age wind up going back to a straight lead after several months - or even have their dog comfortably off lead when they are able to. That's important, as it demonstrates how effective it can be as a training tool.
by Daniel Stevens
To your success in dog training

Monday, August 31, 2009

Why is my Dog Ignoring Me

By DANIEL STEVEN

So your dog is ignoring you and you don't like that. Nobody likes being ignored. It even makes some people very angry. They are the ones that tend to get ignored even more as a result. It's quite common for dogs to ignore commands. Often owners give dogs very few reasons to listen and a lot of reasons not to. A typical scenario might go something like this:



An owner is calling to their dog to "come," the dog ignores them; they call louder and with more venom; the dog continues ignoring them; they start marching angrily toward the dog, clenching their teeth with all the determination of someone not willing to tolerate this degree of disrespect (especially in public); the dog begins to crawl reluctantly toward the owner, knowing their number is up; finally, the owner takes the dog forcefully by the collar, maybe even throws in a smack or two for good measure, and issues another reminder of who the boss is around here.



Words cannot convey how backwards this is!



This "technique" may eventually get a result, but it obviously goes about doing it in all the wrong way. In the short term, it stresses out your dog (which is to say nothing about the potential harm from physical punishment, which I assume does not need to be said to anyone subscribing to a dog training newsletter series). In the long term, this form of discipline establishes a relationship based on fear and threats, rather than a healthy serving of respect.



Your dog needs a leader, and needs to be able to recognize and respond to what we call "commands." But that doesn't mean that you should be "ordering" your dog around. We create short, simple, and direct "commands" for dogs because dogs don't speak English, not because they love to be ordered around in this way. Even though you need to be the top dog, you don't have to make everything sound like a threat to establish your position in the hierarchy. If everything sounds like a threat, you'll get nowhere fast.



We like to say that a dog disobeys commands mostly for one of two reasons:


1) They don't understand you.


Because dogs are responding more to your tone than the actual words you are using, if your tone contradicts your command, you may not be giving your dog a clear idea of what you want him to do.



For example, let's say you have a dog named Bob that jumps up on you all the time. If you say "Get Down Bob, get down" while at the same giggling and pushing him gently, almost playfully away, you have just communicated to Bob the following: "Get down" equals "this game is fun, let's keep playing."



I see this mistake ALL of the time with dog owners.



Another related mistake is the practice of asking a dog to do something rather than telling. So, if you say, "Bob, come here" in way that sounds more like "Could you please maybe come here please??? Then you are effectively giving Bob a choice. So tell Bob to come. You don't have to yell or demand, just make it clear that you mean business.



Also, make sure your commands are simple enough. If you are blessed with a dog who understands "Bob, bring me a beer from the fridge," then you don't have to worry too much about this one. Most of us, however, do. Keep your commands short and simple. Make sure they don't sound too alike.



Lastly, it is always much better to pair hand signals with your verbal commands. In the first part of this course on problem jumping, I talked about using a simple extended hand gesture to tell your dog to "stop" before jumping up on you. My adult dogs are all to the point where I mostly use my voice when I want to "talk" to them. But when I want them to DO something, I can make eye contact and use a hand signal to get them to come, sit, lie down, get in the car, go inside or outside, wait at the curb, etc. Ideally, you'll get to this point as well, but you need to establish those hand signals, and use them.



If you've worked through all of these possibilities and your dog still does not seem to understand you, then you likely need more training. For older dogs, there is the added possibility that the hearing is going, so do consider that if it applies. It's another case where hand signals can go a long way.



2) They are ignoring you.


When your dog ignores commands, it means they understand what you want them to do but are deciding not to do it.



But, you ask, how can you tell? How can you tell if your dog is in fact understanding the exchange but has no intention of obeying?



The answer depends a lot on the body language of your dog. If they are showing signs of fear when you are giving training commands (submissive posturing, avoiding eye contact, ears back, tail tucked), then it is more likely that they don't understand. In these cases, owners can make the situation worse by being more forceful. By contrast, if your dog is posturing confidently, and they do not appear stressed, then it is more likely that they have opted not to listen. They may even be defiant - making direct eye contact, even barking at you, and running away when you approach.



This suggests a dominance issue. You will have to take active steps to establish yourself as the top dog, in addition to being a fun person to play with. But there are also a few immediate steps you can take to have more success with a stubborn mutt. Let's return to that all too common scenario of a wayward dog and the heard but unheeded command to "come."



Always:



• use a positive, happy, even excited tone of voice.
• try squatting down when calling. Open your arms as if to suggest an embrace or praise when they arrive.
• if you can, try walking the opposite way. This forces your dog to make a decision: Stay and get left, or go home with you and get dinner.
• Praise your dog whenever they come, no matter how long it takes.
• Praise your dog when they come to you without being asked. Create an environment in which they absolutely love coming over to you.



Never:



• chase after a dog that won't come, unless safety is an issue.
• call your dog to you to reprimand them.
• call your dog over for something they clearly do not enjoy (getting their nails clipped, taking a bath, etc.).



One final word of advice: if you are still struggling with your position as leader of the pack, I highly recommend naming your next dog "Boss"… "Come here Boss!" "Sit down, Boss!" "Go fetch Boss!" It's a most empowering remedy I assure you!



To your dog success training

Sunday, August 30, 2009

How To Deal With A Jumping Problem?

Do you accept jumping from your dog when you play with him yet you do not allow such behaviour from him when you are all dressed up for work?

In this scenario, we are actually confusing our dogs and may even cause anxiety in them.


Always remember that jumping is a natural behaviour for a dog. Hence it is impossible to eliminate or correct such behaviour within a short period of time.

In dealing with this problem, we have to be consistent in our message to our dog that such behaviour is unacceptable.

To deal with this problem, always remember:

Avoid rough games.
Have toys for playing fetch with him and treats at hand to re-direct the dog’s attention during games.
If need be, use a leash during game.
When he jumps, simply say ‘No’ and gently tugs the leash
Holds the dog’s face and body away from you until he calms down and stops jumping
Then allows him to approach you again
Praise him when he approaches you WITHOUT jumping
Avoid excitable greetings.
Always greet and interact with the dog calmly and gently.
Teach him to sit as a way of greeting. Remember to Praise and Reward him for greeting you in the correct way.
To correct the dog’s jumping behaviour, combine both positive re-enforcement (praise and reward) and negative re-enforcement by letting him experience negative consequences (punishment) for jumping:

Method 1 – Losing his playmate

When he jumps, turn away and immediately stop all interaction with him
Do not touch him with your hand or look down at him as he may think that his jumping behaviour as acceptable
When he tries other methods such as sitting or fetching his toys to get your attention, praise him immediately and calmly so as not to excite and encourage the dog to jump.
If jumping does NOT stop at this time, walk away from him, which may mean leaving the room and not allowing the dog to follow you.
After two to three minutes, return to the room. Your dog should greet you in a calmer manner.
Method 2 – Using Physical Correction

Say ‘No’ immediately when the dog jumps.
Gently tugs the leash on the dog in a downward motion; or
Squirting the dog with water though some dogs love such action
Sit the dog and praise him for doing so
To train your dog to properly greet your guests at the front door:

Keep a spare leash or collar by the front door
When a guest arrives, immediately put the dog on leash
Put the dog in a sit-and-stay position by the front door
Invite the guest in
If the dog jumps on guest, say ‘No’, gently tug the leash to pull him off the guest, put him in his sit position again and praise him
Remember to have plenty of daily practices at the front door with the dog when there are no visitors. Open and close the door often enough for your dog to get used to the action. Then proceed to knocking at the front door and ringing the bell while keeping your dog in a sit-stay position all the while.

Such practices will help the dog to reduce his jumping, lessen his excitement and excessive barking at the front door.



And remember to praise your dog abundantly when he does the right thing!



You Can Do It!
To your success in dog training

Saturday, August 29, 2009

How To Deal With A Nipping or Mouthing Problem?

In dealing with the problem of a nipping or mouthing dog/puppy, it is important to remember that it is a dog’s natural behaviour to nip. Hence it is unrealistic to expect such behaviour will be corrected within a few training sessions or totally eliminated overnight. However with consistency, patient and practice, such behaviour can be corrected over time.

Ways to curb nipping behaviour in a dog/puppy:

Avoid rough games such as play-slapping, wrestling, tug-of-war, etc
Avoid vigorous petting, especially around the face. Always pet the dog gently and keeps the hand slow.
Avoid playing with the dog using your hands as he may treat your hands as his toys. Keep several toys and treats at hand for the dog to focus on.
Give plenty of exercise, such as fetching games, hide-and-seek, etc to burn off the energy in him; especially before any petting or interaction as a tired dog or puppy is not likely to nip.
What to do when your dog/puppy nips you:

Method 1

Freeze immediately.

After freezing, say ‘Off’ or ‘No’ in a sharp tone but not to yell or shout.
At this time, the dog will take his mouth away, back away and/or look at you. At this point, praise him gently and calmly.
If he resumes his nipping, walk away from him.
After several minutes have passed, approach and resume the activity with him as long as he does NOT nip again.
Remember: Never allow or continue any activity with a nipping dog/puppy no matter how small he is or whether the bite hurts.

Method 2

This method can be used when the dog does not stop his nipping when you freeze:

Spray an ‘anti-chewing’ spray in the dog’s mouth once. The spray has a bitter taste and the dog will normally dislike such taste.
Spray it on your hands, feet and clothes before interacting with the dog.
Method 3

Put the dog on a leash (use a chain-link leash if he tends to bite the leash) or head collar before interacting with him.
Say ‘No’ when he nips and gently tug the leash.
Hold the dog’s head away from your body until the dog calms down.
Slowly put our hands or feet back toward the dog’s mouth. NO fast movement.
Praise him gently when he only sniffs or nuzzles as this is appropriate greeting gestures of a dog.




And remember to praise your dog abundantly when he does the right thing!



You Can Do It!
To yout dog training success

Train Your Dog to Form a Good Eating Manner

It is the daily functional training subject to train dog to form a good eating manner. This is not difficult to train it from eating by its instinct to eating slowly. Repeat several times you'll succeed.


Don't feed it on the dining table,don't feed it on the floor


Don't give it food even if your dog is drooling around the dining table. Under this condition, you can scold it. If you really want to feed it, you must show it the place at which it usually eats. Never feed it on the dining table directly.

To Your Training Success

Easy Dog Training Techniques Stop Your Dog's Behavior Problem

Along with deciding to adopt a dog or puppy into your home comes the equally serious choice of dog training methods and techniques to use as well as a commitment to the dog's requirements for food, housing, exercise, health care, and grooming. Dogs should have a loving, stable, and structured environment in order to develop into loyal, talented, and trusting members of the family. Some feel that enough love and attention will solve any behavior problem, but that is not the case. It involves the use of proper dog training techniques, equipment and supplies, and above all - patience and consistency.

To your Dog Training Success

Thursday, August 27, 2009

How To Train Your Dog

Welcome to this blog just follow it and you will learn how to train your dog.
To your dog training success